Sailboat Adventure Part 3: Temptress

(Read Part 1 and Part 2)

The next morning, I headed over to meet Landon at the boat and finalize the “sale.” Landon met me at the marina gate and we walked down the dock to see Temptress

She was waiting for us, filthy as ever, in her slip on Dock E. It was a cool, clear spring day. 

Soon, the boat would be in my name and it would be too late to back out. “Ready to go sign the papers?” Asked Landon. 

Landon and I called Jeff before we walked to the Department of Licensing.

“You two both sound suspiciously happy.” Jeff said. “What have you been smoking?”

“It’s the happiest day of both our lives,” I repeated the adage: “The second happiest day of your life is when you buy a boat, and the first happiest is when you sell a boat.”

Landon and I went up the staircase to the windowless Department of Licensing. Is there a law that DMVs aren’t allowed to have windows? The employees had tried to make it more cheerful by adding Seattle sports memorabilia. There was a Seahawks jersey and an Ichiro funk-pop. 

While the DOL employee slowly typed the boat registration into the computer, Landon and I chatted. Apparently, Elwood had come back and offered him $1,000 for the boat last night, but he was still giving it to me for free because he liked my blog more than he liked boat flippers. 

“Wow,” I said. “I guess Elwood saw the value in it.”

The DOL employee looked up at us. “Value?” He asked. 

In Washington State, if you give a vehicle as a gift, you don’t pay tax. However, if you pay for it, you have to pay 10% of the entire blue book value of it, even if you only paid a fraction of that. 


“No, no value,” said Landon to the clerk. 

“Nope, no value.” I agreed. “It’s a derelict vessel.”

Thankfully, the DOL employee didn’t try to pin any taxes on us. They also didn’t make Landon pay the back registration that hadn’t been paid since it was last sailed in 2007. In a couple more minutes I was the proud owner of a non-functional Newport 33. 



Back at the dock, Landon took me into the marina office. “This is the new owner,” he announced. 

“Yup, I’m the proud new owner.” 

The marina manager shook my hand. “So, can you move it this weekend?”

“Well,” I said, “I’d prefer to get it out of here under its own power, because towing it will be expensive. I expect I’ll be able to move it by mid-week next week.” This was the marina manager’s first week on the job working for the new marina owners, and he seemed kind, but worried. It was his responsibility to clear the dock out. In the corner, a man with leathery skin and motorcycle gear was sitting on a pile of boxes. He reminded me of a falcon waiting to swoop down on an unsuspecting rodent. 

The marina manager directed a question at him: “Chris, what was the name of that mechanic?”

“Kyle?”

“Yeah, I think that was the one. Do you have his contact?”

“It should be in the folder.”

The marina manager sorted uselessly through a folder, and then a pile of papers on his desk. Then he looked up at me.
“Once I find it, I’ll text you the name of the mechanic,” he said. 

Now that the boat was mine, Landon had to head off to his work as a carpenter. First, I snapped a photo of him in front of his former boat. Then I  climbed aboard my new boat. It still didn’t feel like mine, because I didn’t want to get too attached before I was sure the engine would start.

I had made a careful list of what to do to get a motor started that hasn’t been used in 19 years. I was determined to follow it by the book and not take any shortcuts. 

Change the oil, change the oil filter, change the coolant, check the transmission fluid, change the fuel filter, remove the old diesel from the tank, and scrub it out. Possibly change out the fuel lines. 

I climbed into the lazarette and started by emptying the water separator. Surprisingly, the mix of diesel and water that came out didn’t look too bad.  

I started wondering how I would know if the fuel had gone bad. Maybe there was particulate in the fuel lines and I would need to replace all of them. I started to get into my head about all the things that could go wrong, so I decided to call the mechanic that the marina manager had recommended.

I told Kyle the situation: a Universal Diesel that hadn’t been started in more than a decade. 

“Oh, a Universal?” Kyle said. “They don’t make those anymore. You can’t even get parts for them. I wouldn’t even bother if I were you.”

“You can’t even get parts on ebay?” I asked. 

“Nope. If you need to replace anything, even the glow plugs, you’ll have to do a full rebuild or get a new engine.” 

“How much does that cost?” I asked.

“$16,000.” 

“Well, thanks,” I said. 

After I hung up I sat down. I felt a bit winded. I thought about calling Landon, but this wasn’t his problem now that I had signed the paperwork. I decided to call Jeff. After all, his ad had gotten me into this pickle. 


“Are you serious?” Jeff said when I told him what Kyle had said. “I’ll be right over.” 

The Universal M20 boat engine

Back at the boat, Jeff shook his head in disgust. “This engine has barely been used. $16,000 rebuild yeah right.. I’m sure we can get it to start.”

I believed him. He had bought and sold a lot of boats, and clearly had experience with engines. He showed me that the engine, a Universal M20, had a hole on the bottom where you could empty the oil from if you could just fit something underneath. Unfortunately I didn’t have any suitably sized Tupperware to fit under the engine. He showed me how to change the coolant and check the transmission fluid. He showed me that the Newport 33 had hatch in the cockpit above the engine that you could open to easily access the top of the engine, and two hatches alongside the engine. It was extremely accessible to work on. 

More than mechanical expertise, Jeff had stories. He told stories about the Ballard Mill Marina, and the people who had lived aboard. Jeff still lived aboard at the marina, in a boat with a wooden mast that had sailed around the world for 20 years before it came to him. He knew the metal sculptor liveaboard who had made the tree-like sculpture next to dock E. “It’s built so that you can build a fire inside of it,” he said. “Although I don’t know why you would want to do that. Seems kind of risky.”

The metal sculpture and Storm’s butt

Even after I headed out for the day, Jeff kept texting me links to videos about how to fix the engine.

He also texted me a link to the development company that had purchased the marina. It was full of drivel about keeping the spirit of the place while giving it a fresh face. Also known as forcing all of the marina tenants out so that they could get newer, higher paying tenants in. 


My girlfriend and I had booked an Airbnb yurt in Skagit for that weekend. We were planning our first weekend trip as a couple to see the tulips and go to flea markets. After I told her that I had decided to get the free boat, she said that she could cancel the trip if we needed to. Instead, we could spend our weekend on the boat, which she was also excited about. I appreciated this because I knew that I wouldn’t be able to focus on the tulips with the boat hanging over my head. The marina owners wanted the Temptress gone ASAP.

To be continued…

Sailboat Adventure Part 2: The Free Boat

The ad said the boat was in good shape. All it needed was some elbow grease and a good cleaning.

I knew that this was only partly true. If, by some lucky chance, the engine really was in good shape, it would still need several days work to get it running after sitting for more than a decade.

I didn’t want a project. I just wanted to sail in the San Juans with my girlfriend this summer. How would a boat that had sat for a decade possibly be ready to sail in the San Juans? It hadn’t had bottom paint since I was in college.

The person who had made the listing, who apparently wasn’t the owner (what was the story there?) had already replied to my email, and commented about my blog (it’s in my email footer): “impressive website! Looks like you’ve lived on sailboats before so you have a good idea of what you’re looking at.” I had proffered to see it next week, but he told me to come soon because he was getting a lot of responses and it needed to be moved.


For no reason at all I already had a good feeling about this boat. I tried to quash the nascent hope rising in my chest. Surely it would be a piece of shit. I decided to email him back and tell him I wouldn’t make it tonight. It was a beautiful day and I had better things to do besides going all the way to Seattle to look at a mildewed free sailboat. On second thought, I would call first and ask a couple questions. A man, Jeff, answered the phone. I asked if the tarp in the photos was over the boat because the portholes leaked.

“Don’t all portholes leak?” This was true, if not encouraging.

I asked about the engine. It did turn over.

I asked about the provenance. It belonged to his friend Landon, who lived aboard but lost interest in sailing the boat because he got more invested in racing bicycles. That’s why the boat interior was in such nice shape. “Yeah, Landon is such a strange guy. You’ll see when you come here. I don’t know how he lived aboard and kept the interior teak so nice.”

It WAS nice. There were barely any scratches, but there was a spot on the floor where the wood had rotted away. I asked about that. “Oh, it filled up with water once when Landon went on a trip because the float pump on the bilge doesn’t work.”

Jeff told me about the marina. It had been purchased by a developer who wanted to turn it into one of those fancy pants marinas that have condos above the water and super yachts on the dock. Half of the marinas in Ballard have been gentrified, and now this family-owned marina had finally sold. They were forcing everyone off this dock so that they could start construction.

The boats were all supposed to be out March 31st but Landon’s was still there. Landon had almost paid to have the boat crushed, but Jeff told him that was a waste, and took posting it on Craigslist upon himself.

“We really liked your blog and we think you’d be the perfect owner for this boat, so I’ll hold off on showing it to anyone else until you’ve looked at it.”



I wondered if he knew about my anti-developer bent, and was pandering to me. I felt suspicious of anyone giving away anything for free. But I also felt excited. I’d never received anything just because people liked my writing before. And this felt like another sign that my writing was important, just like last week when Chris McClimans wrote about how my blog post had helped him.



I almost biked over, but I made a last minute decision take my car and my dog Sophie with me. If the boat was in decent shape, I would probably stay overnight in Seattle so I could start working on it right away. Time was of the essence to get it off the dock.



I made a mental checklist of the things that would cause me to not accept this boat:

  • Soft spots on the deck

  • Smells really moldy inside

  • Rust on the engine, or engine doesn’t turn over

  • Too much crazing or cracks on the fiberglass

  • Obvious problems with the mast or rigging


Jeff and Landon were both waiting for me when I arrived. Jeff had long white hair in a ponytail. Landon was a cheerful guy with a bright smile. As we walked onto the dock, an elderly man pushed his way in alongside us. “I’m here to see the boat,” he said. “What boat?” They asked.

“The free one.” Apparently this 93 year old man, Elwood, had used satellite imagery to look at the marinas closest to the craigslist coordinates, found the boat, and made his way down here uninvited. I had to respect the hustle. He handed us each a card. It said “WE PURCHASE DISTRESSED VESSELS.”

And there, at the end of the dock, was the free boat. We all boarded her, including Elwood. Landon told Elwood I had first dibs if I wanted her, but he could check her out too. I poked around. Landon showed me the engine. The very bottom of it, which had been submerged when the boat filled with water, was rusty, but otherwise it looked practically new. It had 900 hours on it. The curtains were mildewed, but the interior of the boat didn’t smell like mold. It smelled pleasant and boaty, with a faint whiff of teak oil and diesel. I walked across the top of the boat in my bare feet and inspected the chainplates and deck hardware. Not a soft spot anywhere, although some of the fiberglass in the cockpit was warped from age. The sail cover was in tatters, and it looked like there might be a couple small holes in the mainsail. I didn’t need perfect sails though. The immediate inspection looked good enough. Now I just had to say yes and the boat was mine.

Of course, there were other things I might discover on a more thorough inspection of the boat. The engine might need a $4,000 rebuild, for instance, or a rigger might tell me that the mast was crooked and the rigging was dangerous to sail with. There might be holes in the bottom, although the bilge looked dry. Elwood’s presence reassured me though. If I decided to get it and I changed my mind, I could always call Elwood.

“I want it,” I announced. Landon was all smiles. Elwood shook our hands and headed out.

That night, I stayed in Seattle with my cousin and her boyfriend. I could barely sleep. I made a mental checklist in my head of all the work I would need to do, starting the next morning, to get this boat off the dock as quickly as possible.

Note: I’m trying something new and and publishing this series on my Substack. I’m super late to joining Substack, but this true story feels magical enough to promote it to a wider audience.

Sailboat Adventure Part 1: The Wheel of Fortune

I decided not to sail with my friend Tony on his Alaska to Mexico journey. I’ll explain why not in a future post. The next day, the anxiety hit.

Going on a long sailing journey has been a dream of mine since I moved to Seattle. I have made some terrible decisions for love in the past. Had a chosen poorly?

Also, in preparation for the sailing trip, I had already rented my house out from May through August. May was just around the corner. I now had three weeks to either rent an apartment (disappointing - and probably expensive) or buy my own sailboat and take my own trip (expensive).

I waded into the sailboats section of Craigslist. There were dozens of sailboats being sold in the $10-20,000 range. It is currently a buyers market for sailboats. Many boats had been on the market for more than three months. To facilitate my decision, I made a spreadsheet of every sailboat on Seattle area Craigslist that met my specifications: 29-33 feet, working diesel engine, $20,000 or less. I also noted the features that I wanted: lifesling, anchor windlass, swim step, working head and galley. Then I plugged the whole spreadsheet into DeepSeek and asked it to find the best deal and the one that would have the best resale value.

The thing was, I didn’t really want to own a sailboat again. I wanted to enjoy a sailboat for the summer and then not have to deal with the continued maintenance (isn’t that what everyone wants?) Owning a 100 year old home keeps me busy enough with maintenance. I thought perhaps my best plan was to buy a boat, sail it, and sell it in August.

According to AI, the best Craigslist deal for this plan was a rickety looking 33 foot Newport selling for $8,000. However, after calculating in 10% sales tax, plus the repairs and upgrades it would certainly need, even if I could resell it it would still be several thousand dollars net loss. I realized with a sinking feeling that buying a boat was probably not the wisest choice for an unemployed person.

Then I had a creative idea: I could rent a boat!

As I always do in times of crisis, I pulled a few tarot cards.

  • Buy a boat: 3 of Swords

  • Rent a boat: Queen of Wands

  • Something else?: Wheel of Fortune

It seemed like the Tarot was trying to tell me that buying a boat wasn’t a good option. Three of Swords is the card of heartbreak. The Queen of Wands is a positive card, especially for new ventures, so renting a boat looked better. I don’t have any ASA certifications, so I couldn’t charter a boat, but maybe someone who had been trying to sell their boat for months would be amenable to renting their boat to me. I made an ad advertising myself as an experienced and responsible sailor. I printed it out and biked over to the Bremerton Marina office to ask them to hang it on their tenant’s bulletin board.

I waited a day for replies to my ad. Nothing. What was I doing? I felt unmoored.

In defiance of the tarot, I returned to my Craigslist search. And there it was: The Free Boat. Someone in Ballard was offering their Newport 33 for free. The catch was that it hadn’t been sailed (or washed) in almost 20 years. The engine hadn’t been started in as long, but according to the ad, it turned over.

Well, this was something else. The Wheel of Fortune.

I sent an email.